When refinancing actually makes sense, when it doesn't, and how to know the difference before you sign anything.
Refinancing is a tool, not a panacea. I tell every client the same framework: only refinance when the math beats the penalty over the remaining term. Lower-rate marketing is loud. The real number is the total cost over the period you'll actually hold the loan. Below is how I run that math, the three good reasons to refinance, and the warning signs that say "wait."
I told the Financial Post / CMP last winter that refinancing at renewal is presenting unexpected challenges for a lot of Canadian borrowers. The renewal letter from your existing bank is one option, not the answer. Treat it that way and you keep your leverage.
In Canada, you can refinance up to 80% of your home's current appraised value, minus your remaining mortgage balance. That gap is your accessible equity.
Home value: $900,000. Current mortgage: $400,000. Maximum refinance: 80% × $900,000 = $720,000. Accessible equity: $720,000 − $400,000 = $320,000 available to withdraw.
Pull out cash for renovations, an investment property, a child's education, or any major expense. The money comes out tax-free (it's your own equity) and at mortgage rates, which are almost always lower than credit cards, personal loans, or HELOCs.
If you have $40,000 spread across credit cards at 19.99%, rolling that into your mortgage at 5% can save thousands in interest and drop your monthly payments significantly. See the debt consolidation page for a worked example.
If rates have dropped significantly since you signed your current mortgage, it may be worth paying the penalty to break early and lock in a lower rate. The math has to work — we'll run it before you commit.
Both let you access equity, but they work differently:
These costs can often be rolled into the new mortgage, so you don't need cash out of pocket.
A lower rate is great, but if you extend your amortization from 20 years back to 30, you'll pay more interest over the life of the mortgage. I'll show you the all-in numbers both ways so you make an informed decision.
Send me your current mortgage details — balance, rate, renewal date, lender — and I'll come back with the actual cost-to-break versus what you'd save. If the math doesn't work, I'll tell you. That's the conversation I have with most clients before we ever apply for anything.
The math is specific. Send me your situation and I'll do it honestly — including the version where the answer is "stay where you are."